Island Chronicles, vol. 20 – ‘Among His Most Pleasant Recollections’: Ulysses S. Grant’s Visit to Key West, 1880
Welcome to “Island Chronicles,” the Florida Keys History Center’s monthly feature dedicated to investigating and sharing events from the history of Monroe County, Florida. These pieces draw from a variety of sources, but our primary well is the FKHC’s archive of documents, photographs, diaries, newspapers, maps, and other historical materials.
By Corey Malcom, PhD
Lead Historian, Florida Keys History Center
Key West has had its fair share of U.S. presidents visit the island, and the “Little White House” – the temporary abode for multiple 20th century commanders-in-chief – is famous and beloved. The first presidential visit to Key West, though, happened in 1880, when former President Ulysses S. Grant, then just 2 ½ years out of office, stopped at the island for an evening as he traveled to Havana. Grant’s time in Key West was brief, but it was well documented, and, by all accounts, it was an extraordinary and memorable event for the small and remote city.[1]
Ulysses S. Grant, “General Grant” to many, was particularly revered because he had led Union forces to victory over the Confederacy in 1865, which kept the United States intact. Grant was able to then parlay his military heroism into a successful run for the presidency, and he served two terms as chief executive from 1869-1877. In that role, Grant is well-remembered for his commitment to civil rights for minorities.
General Grant in Florida. The Reception at Key West – Torch-light Procession in the Evening. From a Sketch by Frank H. Taylor. Published in Harper’s Weekly, February 21, 1880, p.117. Gift of Corey Malcom.
Two months out of office, Ulysses and Julia Grant left for England to visit their daughter, but their original family trip would go on to escalate into a consequential, 2 ½ year, world tour. On May 17, 1877, the couple left Philadelphia and crossed the Atlantic to England. From there, their itinerary expanded, eventually taking them through Europe, the Middle East and Asia. In September of 1879, they landed in San Francisco, crossed through the western United States, and on December 16, 1879, arrived in Philadelphia to complete their global circumnavigation. A former first couple had never made such an extensive voyage, and their highly public and well received travels helped to strengthen the United States’ role on the international stage.
Republicans were buoyed by Grant’s international success, and he was encouraged to represent the party in a run for a third term as president in the 1880 election. Grant was receptive to the idea, and he and his advisors thought it would be wise that he continue to travel. A trip to Florida, Cuba, Mexico, and Texas was planned.
On December 29, Ulysses and Julia Grant, accompanied by their son Col. Frederick D. Grant and wife Ida, and General Philip Sheridan with his wife Irene, left Philadelphia. The group traveled through the Carolinas and Georgia and reached Fernandina on January 4. It was President Grant’s first time to touch Florida soil. Their itinerary then took them southward through Jacksonville, Orange Park, St. Augustine, Silver Springs, and the Cedar Keys.
From Cedar Key, Grant and party were to board the new steamship Admiral on its maiden voyage to Havana. Key Westers heard of the plan, and made a proposal: “When it was announced [Grant] would sail from Cedar Keys for Havana on the night of the 20th of January, an informal meeting of the citizens, ex-soldiers and army officers then stationed at Key West resolved to wire the general on his arrival at Cedar Keys an invitation to stop over for a few hours en route to Havana,” remembered L.Y. Jenness, then manager of Key West’s Russell House hotel. Committees were formed to organize a reception in case the great general and former president accepted their offer. Their hopes were realized: “Late in the day of the 20th we received his acceptance by wire,” wrote Jenness.
It was decided that the Russell House on Duval Street would be the headquarters for the reception. Flowers and fronds were gathered from across the island. “For what we lacked in rich delicacies for the table, we were beautifully supplied with attractions to the eye in the way of beautiful floral decorations and tropical plants,” said Jenness. Long tables were set, with large floral arrangements on each side and a bouquet at each place setting.
The Russell House in the 100 block of Duval Street in the 1870s. From a stereoview. Monroe County Library collection.
Army Engineers Capt. William H. Heuer, who was overseeing the construction of the lighthouse at American Shoal, led the building of an arch across Duval Street in front of the hotel; the top of the arc emblazoned with the word “Welcome.” A second arch was built by the island’s Cuban community a bit further down Duval Street, in front of San Carlos Hall. Other island residents used bunting and palm fronds to decorate buildings along a planned parade route.
The Admiral steamed from Cedar Key on the evening of January 20. Joining Grant and his party were Judge James W. Locke, who had been appointed by President Grant as U.S. District Judge for South Florida, along with J.K. Roberts, a proprietor of the new steamship line that ran the Admiral, as well as multiple guests invited to celebrate the inaugural passage of the new route. The voyage was pleasant, and Key West came into view the following evening.
Just before 8 p.m., the Admiral’s whistle sounded to announce the approach of the distinguished guests. A crowd of Key Westers, led by Mayor Livingston W. Bethel, assembled at the Government Dock behind the Custom House to greet the ship. After docking, the steamer’s lines were made tight, and Judge Locke introduced President Grant to Mayor Bethel, who offered congratulations to Grant for completing his journey around the world and a welcome to the city. Grant, his son Fred, and Philip Sheridan then prepared to tour Key West, while their wives chose to stay onboard and be entertained by Col. Frank N. Wicker, Key West’s Collector of Customs and head of the local Republican party.
Carriages, surrounded by “an immense crowd of people of all colors and nationalities,” were waiting for the distinguished guests on the waterfront. Though it was dark, a parade had been planned, and the carriages, now carrying Grant and party, proceeded down Duval Street, with the route lighted by torches and Chinese lanterns. President Grant’s carriage led the procession, followed by Key Westers carrying torches, musical bands, the Key West Fire Department, and members of various lodges. All manner of the island’s citizenry lined the route and cheered. The parade was briefly stopped so a young girl could present Grant with a bouquet of flowers. The procession passed under the arches, which were also illuminated with lanterns, while rockets shot into the air from the balconies of the Russell House.
After going through “the principal parts of the city,” the procession went to “a park, in the center of which a sort of Fourth-of-July stand had been erected.”[2] At this point, addresses were given. William Artrell, principal of Key West’s Douglass School, opened with a heartfelt speech thanking Grant for his many services to the nation and to the “colored race,” in particular. Grant responded to Artrell: “I heartily thank the colored citizens of Key West for their cordial welcome. I trust that they will ever appreciate the new rights bestowed upon them and attend well to the duties entailed upon them, to society and their country by these privileges. In this way you will disarm any unfriendly critics and live to enjoy the greatness and beneficence of our country and participate in its progress.”
The next speaker was Carlos Manuel De Cespedes, a Cuban immigrant and anti-Spanish revolutionary who had served as Mayor of Key West just four years earlier. Cespedes spoke on behalf of the island’s large Cuban community, telling Grant that the exiles were proud of his visit to their new island home, and they offered hearty congratulations for his successes and good wishes for his future. Grant appreciated the sentiments, and replied that “the Cubans, or any other refugees in this country, would always find a free home with us.” And, he hoped, “they would prosper in their adopted country and never desire to leave it.”
The menu for the reception held for General U.S. Grant on January 21, 1880, at the Russell House in Key West. Monroe County Library Collection.
L.Y. Jenness, manager of the Russell House Hotel in 1880, and organizer of the reception for President Grant, said of the silk menu: ‘I was fortunate enough to find a quantity of patriotic sash ribbon, about five inches wide, which at some time had been bought for some celebration. It was of silk, with red, white and blue bars lengthwise of the ribbon, and the whole dotted with raised white stars. This, cut into pieces, made splendid material upon which to print a menu for such an occasion.’ It was intended for each of the 52 guests at the dinner to take their menu home as a souvenir of the important occasion.
Everyone then moved on to the Russell House for a prolonged round of greetings and handshaking with military personnel and a broad swath of the island’s general population. L.Y. Jenness recounted, “I shall never forget that meeting of officers, all of whom had served in the army or navy during the war, the army officers in particular who personally knew Gen. Grant and General Sheridan… During the two hours of tiresome handshaking, as the people of Key West crowded through, from the front door and out, I could not help noticing with admiration [Grant’s] uniform courtesy to all. Dress or personal appearance made no difference. His kind look and pleasant words were the same to all…”
At midnight the reception line concluded; it was time for the banquet. Grant and Sheridan were joined by various Army and Navy officers, Mayor Bethel and the City Council, and other leading citizens, all accompanied by wives and ladies – a total of 52 diners – all of whom sat at two long tables. For the next two hours, the party dined on seafood, ham, beef tongue, turkey, cakes, fruit, and ice cream, all “products of the location, principally,” according to Jenness, who organized and hosted the meal.
It was close to two o’clock in the morning when the late-night dinner ended. The celebrated guests said their goodbyes, made their way back to the Admiral, and rejoined their wives. The steamer’s lines were promptly cast, and it sailed toward Havana to continue the goodwill tour. L.Y. Jenness remembered how the visit touched both hosts and visitors: “We were flattered that on the little island of Key West the great general knew the true love and admiration we all felt was sincere, when he told us his few hours with us were among his most pleasant recollections,” he wrote. Ulysses Grant was in Key West for only six hours, but every minute of his visit was well spent. A good time was had by all.
[1] This narrative of Grant’s visit to Key West is compiled from two sources: An 1880 account titled “General Grant In Cuba” published in the New York Daily Tribune on January 30, written by a reporter accompanying Grant and his entourage. And the 1896 reminiscences of Mr. L.Y. Jenness, manager of Key West’s Russell House Hotel at the time of Grant’s visit. Jenness’ account was published as “Grant In Key West” in the New Haven (CT) Register of April 14.
[2] It is not clear where this “park” was, but it was likely one of two places: Clinton Place, the triangular “square” framed by Greene, Whitehead, and Front Streets; or Jackson Square, where the courthouse stands.
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